THE HOLIDAY SEASON IN SAN RAMON

There are a lot of things I’m learning to love in Costa Rica, and Christmas here is one of them.  There are a few similarities to Christmas in the U.S.A., but that’s about it.  I only started to become aware of Christmas in the shops about a week before the big day, when you would sometimes hear Christmas Carols, especially "Feliz Navidad" by Jose Feliciano.   Before that there was very little to remind one that Christmas was fast approaching, which to me is the biggest gift ever!  Christmas decorations are around, but to a far lesser degree than they are at home.  Some Ticos have told me that although presents are exchanged, it is not a given.   Some people have Christmas trees, but many do not.  When I do see more elaborate decorations and  reminders of Christmas, they are most often large Nativity scenes in someone’s yard or in a public space.  Christmas is seen more as a religious holiday and time off from work, (for some a whole week), to spend with family.  I am told Costa Ricans head for the beach en mass during the holiday.  After a Christmas Eve dinner tonight with new expat friends, I think I may join those masses tomorrow.  I can’t wait to get a deep breath of salty sea air.  The buses run all the time, even on Christmas!

CARLOS MARIO GONZALEZ "MR TACO",  SAN RAMON ENTREUPRENER

After several comfortable days in the “San Ramon Hotel”, I was referred by the owner, Don Alvaro Gonzalez, to his family, where I have taken up longer term accommodations.  I have a more than comfortable room with a private bath, use of the kitchen and living spaces, an internet connection, color TV with HBO and Spanish subtitles, (which are, by the way, a terrific help in learning the language)…what more could I want?  Grace, the lady of the house does my laundry and irons everything, even the underwear.  I asked her not to bother, but her son, Carlos Mario, (he has such great English!) told me “that’s just what she does”.  Most mornings Grace and I have very delicious Costa Rican coffee at the dining room table.  This is like a Spanish lesson for me and an English lesson for her.  I am pretty amazed at how well we can communicate.  

Carlos Mario, 23, is a budding restaurateur, owner operator of “Mr. Taco”.  He will soon introduce the “Coney” hot dog to San Ramon and I have a feeling they are going to go loco for it!   Grace’s 12 year old daughter, Sofia, is on vacation from school and she is a delight to be around.  She doesn’t particularly like to study English at school, so I am always  touched when she pulls out the family’s huge English/Spanish dictionary during our conversations.

On Christmas Day it was sunny and beautiful at Puntegeras, a beach lined with coconut palms on the Pacific side that is about a one hour bus ride from San Ramon.   Grace, Sofia and I took the bus there for a day of pure relaxation and calm.  The water was surprisingly warm, not the shock of cold you get in the Central Californian surf.   Most all the restaurants there and inland as well offer slushy frozen fruit drinks…everyone enjoys these, not just the touristas!  I think a main ingredient is a processed fruit puree, but many places add fresh fruit as well.  My favorite so far is the “Sandia”, or watermelon, which can be made for you with milk or water.  I like mine made with water, and I like it so well, I haven’t tried any other flavor yet.  But I’m sure I will in time!  I’ve also been consuming fresh green coconut water…I try to get one a day.  Dr. Mercola (mercola.com) says that fresh coconut water is packed with vitamins and trace minerals.  Many fruit stands have these coconuts with the husk still on.  They chop off the top part with a machete, stick in a straw, and there you are!  Depending on the location, these cost anywhere from 40 cents to one dollar.  On my finca I will be sure to plant some coconuts!  Ahhh…the life!

In my last blog, I made some misleading statements, because I didn’t take into account that one kilo is almost two pounds!  So actually, the fresh fruit and vegetables are sometimes about half the price that they are in the U.S.   Also, I’m looking at the meats in an entirely different light now that I’m using the correct measurements!  That being said, a decision to move to Central America should not be based alone on a less expensive cost of living.  I’ve been told that the difference is shrinking rapidly, and I can see now that this whole transition will run into thousands of dollars, given residency fees, etc.  However, if you are looking for a slower pace of life, a far healthier and simpler lifestyle, and a sane approach to healthcare that doesn’t drive families into bankruptcy, it just might be worth every penny.

LAURA (CARLOS' GIRLFRIEND), GRACE GONZALEZ SANCHO & SOFIA GONZALEZ SANCHO
LIVIN THE GOOD LIFE

I have discovered that there is a thriving ex-pat community here.  There is a woman’s group that meets at a Café every Thursday.  I was extremely lucky, when on my first day in San Ramon I met one of the members at the bank and she told me about it.  So I went last Thursday and met some truly interesting people.  Sometimes it is hard work being a stranger in a strange land, even if they call it “paradise”, and now it is so much clearer to me in a personal way why there were all the ethnic neighborhoods where I grew up in the Northeast (U.S.).  The Irish, the Italians, Puerto Ricans, Poles and Russians…it makes perfect sense that people cling to the familiar.  The women I met through this group are committed to their new community but also dedicated to helping the newcomers find their way around.  It’s hard to quantify how much that help is valued and appreciated.

SAN RAMON DRUMMERS HEATING UP THE TOWN PLAZA THE NIGHT AFTER CHRISTMAS

One of the women expats has a dog rescue mission and I’m told she now cares for 168 previously homeless dogs.  The San Ramon Women’s Expat Group helps out and once a month they go out to the shelter to help clean the kennels, wash the dogs, and give individual attention to these lucky dogs; some will be adopted out.  In addition, a lot of the expats in San Ramon make financial contributions to this noble endeavor.

Like myself, many North Americans and Europeans are animal lovers (and I certainly don’t mean to say that many Central Americans are not…there are many cherished pets here!).  But it’s painful to see neglected and homeless dogs everywhere.  There is no animal control that I know of.   Mostly the dogs prowl along the street with their noses to the ground scavenging for any morsel.   So any time I have leftovers, at home or in a restaurant, a doggie bag is a must.  In Costa Rica, usually the stray dogs seem to be in pretty good shape, although I have heard horror stories about dogs being found at death’s door.  In Panama, there were pitifully skinny and maimed dogs in every town.  I’ve seen a few with one of their eyes poked out.  Without Animal Control in the United States, we would also have a massive population of unwanted dogs on the street.  Although the good, dedicated people at the U.S. shelters do their best with adoption, the large majority of dogs picked up are euthanized, their innocent little bodies cremated.  Hence, no visible problem.   Cats are rarely seen here and I am still trying to find out why.

I hope you are enjoying the Holidays, and that 2012 ushers in a new, enlightened age for all.

RAINY DAYS AND RAINY NIGHTS

I have been in Costa Rica for nearly two weeks, and you haven’t until now heard a peep out of me.  Actually, I was just giving all the slow pokes a chance to catch up.  Only joking! 

Since being here in Costa Rica, with the exception of only a few partly sunny days, it has been raining. And I mean raining hard, like crazy hard, nearly non-stop.  If it had ever rained like this in California, it would have resulted in a hundred year flood!

La Fortuna in the Rare Time Between the Raindrops

I I I I had come to La Fortuna from the San Jose area, through Heredia and San Joquin Las Flores.  La Fortuna is a little town nestled beside the active volcano known as Arenal.  People come here to enjoy the protected wild areas around the volcano.  There is zip lining (sort of like zinging through the forest while your harnessed to a slippery line), hiking, white water rafting, and all types of other very adventurous activities.  I had hoped to do some bicycling and bird watching, but the heavy rain made those activities impossible.  I have seen some beautiful and unusual birds, though.   I figured there would be incredibly fertile black soil up here, and I wasn't disappointed!  After all, it is a lush, tropical rain forest, hence the rain.  The first three days were spent with some very funny and kind “Ticos”  (this is the term Costa Ricans use for themselves), Juan and Roger.  Juan is a business man and has a real estate development in the early stages that is slated to be a beautiful gated community with a river bordering the north and east perimeters.  They drove me out to this place and at first look, I was a goner.   There are two parcels together comprising almost an acre, all of it usable, flat,  fertile land, and the largest parcel follows the river’s curve.  Then, to seal the deal, there is an incredible view of the majestic Arenal volcano.  What was not to love?  Well, the price, for one thing.  I’m sure it is worth every penny, but it was unfortunately out of my ballpark.  And then, too, this is more of a residential development, when what I am really looking for is a rural tract, a small farm (or “Finca” as it is called in Spanish).

Even though I was not destined to own the property, through it all I did get to me these great people, including much of Juan’s and his wife Sade’s immediate and extended family.  Juan invited me to his son’s 3^rd birthday party, where I had a wonderful time, in spite of the language challenges.  Roger, Juan’s good friend, is a world traveler with fluent English.   Juan’s English, on the other hand, is about on par with my Spanish.  I know they were disappointed that I was not the buyer they were hoping for, but they were such good sports about it and I enjoyed their company tremendously.  We had some meals together, they helped me buy a cell phone (for local calls only…I’m using Skype for international calls), and they introduced me to a local Tico home builder.  Do you know that you can build a darling small home with one bathroom, all wood inside and out for about $35,000.00 U.S.?  An added plus: Ticos are known for their exquisite craftsmanship.  If anyone reading this is interested in owning a little piece of this paradise, Google:  Qintas Palo Alto, Costa Rica.  If the property/development does not come up, drop me a line and I’ll put you in touch with either Juan Jose Aria or Roger Mejias.  You’ll see that there are parcels of all different sizes and I think the terms are very generous.

If you are planning on visiting Costa Rica, or I’m told any country in Central America, one thing you have to be on guard about, is that the native merchants will almost always try to overcharge you.  I didn’t notice this quite so much at first, or if I did, I didn’t think too much about it , but after awhile it gets to be an annoyance.  It really started getting on my nerves after I had visited this one particular Tico  restaurant on a few different occasions with Juan and Roger.   While with them, I would think, “Wow, the prices here are great!”  But then, a couple times I went back by myself, and voila!  The prices jumped up on average about two dollars higher!  If you make a comment or try to draw attention to the discrepancy, they just ignore it or pretend they don’t understand you.  Now if my Spanish was better, I might be inclined to start a fight with the cashier!  But as it is, there is not much I can do except not frequent the establishment any longer.  Once you’re onto it, you’ll notice it happens all the time.  Often, businesses will not even have their prices listed anywhere.  So be forewarned, if you are a “gringo” and you go into a restaurant or shop where there are no menus or prices posted, you will be gouged!.

As long as we’re on the subject of money, here’s something else.  Most of you who know me at all know I am a comparison shopper, big time!   And just because I currently reside in Central America, that hasn’t changed!  I do confess, I am horrible at currency conversion computations.  Where the average person needs a couple of days to get the hang of it, I need a couple of weeks.  That being said, I have noticed that what all of the “Expat” sites have told me and you about everything being dirt cheap here IS A LIE!  I’m here to tell you the truth.  I am still inexperienced in a number of areas, but here is what I have found so far:  

Clothing is generally less expensive, but after looking in many of the local shops, I can see that much of the merchandise is at the lower end.  If there is higher end clothing, it is difficult to tell, because everything tends to be mixed together.  It is probably different in the malls, but I suspect that there prices will be comparable to the U.S.  

Imported items like Welch’s Grape Juice is a good 30% or more higher here than in the U.S. grocery stores.  You won’t find rotisserie chickens in most grocery stores, but the little “Soda” restaurants (this restaurant is a kind of neighborhood luncheonette specializing in quick and traditional foods) do sell them…for $12.00 in La Fortuna!   Surprisingly, vegetables in Costa Rica are not a bargain either, but I’m hoping I’ll find some good stores with reasonable prices just as I did in California, where vegetables have been going up in price steadily. 

Beef is reasonable, and grass fed!  The lush pasture lands in Costa Rica are just amazing to see.  Grass fed beef is selling at  a premium in the U.S., where health conscious people are shunning corn fed beef (due to the fact that most of the corn cows are fed is now GMO, thanks to Monsanto).  Mercola.com has been sounding the alarm about this for the last couple of years, and he claims that cattle on a grass diet are the best choice for beef.   It is leaner and the Omega 3's are much higher.   Americans here complain that the Costa Rican beef  is tougher, which it is, but I just had some tonight at a Columbian Restaurant, and it was delicious!

Farm Hand on the Arias Farm in La Fortuna, Costa Rica

Labor is downright cheap, with most Costa Ricans earning extremely low wages.  It makes me wonder how they do it!  Luckily for them water, electricity, public transportation, cell phones….all of these seem to be very reasonable.  Most Ticos do not use air conditioning, which is a big savings.   Gasoline is about the same price or a little higher than it is in the U.S.  I am currently seeing it posted around town for about $3.80. regular.

One of the big questions in my mind during my planning stages was, what should I take and what should I leave?  Mostly the advice I read was to replace everything once you got here.  So far, I would say that advice is wrong.  Although I can’t quite figure out the pricing yet on furniture, (on every price tag there are several ways to buy…different financing options and it is hard to decipher the cash price), I have a feeling furniture and other household goods may be on the pricey side.    John Pennisi, a New Jersey expat who owns the restaurant “New York” in La Fortuna, agrees.   He told me that taxes on appliances and other big ticket items are pretty hefty.  By the way, during the week I spent in La Fortuna, I hardly missed a day without a meal at New York Grill and Pizza!  Not only were John & Priscilla “hosts with the most”, the food was outstanding!  Read my review in Trip Adviser under the name Alejandra, which is what Amy (John and Priscilla’s  5 year old daughter) re-named me.  I like that name!   


http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g309226-d2363962-Reviews-New_York_Grill_n_Pizza-La_Fortuna_de_San_Carlos_Arenal_Volcano_National_Park_Province_of_Alajuela.html

John is also a remarkable guy and one of the best conversationalists I’ve ever met.  He is brilliant on electricity and is also a builder, welder, and project designer.   He and Priscilla have even done some farming.  I want to hear more on what he has to say about Tesla, and everything else, for that matter!  I have seen some of his work aroung town, and I am so impressed.  Priscilla is a native Costa Rican, but her English is absolutely flawless and without any discernable accent.  Although I haven’t yet had the chance to talk with her at length, I hope to know her better, too.

When all is said and done, what is really making this trip the exciting adventure it is, is meeting and having the chance to hang out with these beautiful people along the way!  Till next time, Adios, Amigos

PHOTOS

I have finally gotten around to organizing some of the pictures I've been taking, so this blog will be a short pictorial.  I am using an inexpensive little Vivitar 3 pixel.  It's nothing fancy, but it gets the job done without me having to worry about losing or breaking an expensive camera, as I have done with others.  I hope to get better with it as I go along.  https://picasaweb.google.com/103787645092383625526/PANAMA

Down the road a bit, you will be seeing some pictures taken in Costa Rica.  Since my arrival in this heartbreakingly beautiful country, I have been staying at a terrific Hotel in Heredia (just outside of San Jose), called "Hotel Las Flores".  It is a family owned and operated hotel with the friendliest service ever.  Gabriella, or Gabi, as she prefers to be called, runs the little restaurant here where all of the guests congregate, since she has a vivacious personality and is a great cook besides!  Gabi has the most beautiful little girl, Isabella.   So, here is the first picture in Costa Rica, of Gabi and Isabella...oops, it looks like the picture didn't open.  Sorry, I don't have another with Isabella, so you're just going to have to see Gabi alone for now, until she sends me another picture!

El Valle and Bouquete

Readers, this is published accidently after the last post, when it should have been posted before:

Today I am writing from Bouquette, Panama, altitude about 3,500 ft.  I am on a converted schoolbus going back down to David (pronounced Da-veed), where I came from.  I’m guessing that the distance is about 25 miles, and the fare is only $1.70.   I intend to travel to Volcan, Panama, which is almost on the border of Costa Rica.  But like California, there are only so many mountain passes and the terrain makes it impossible for roads to be built in certain places.  As a result, I must go back down, then come back up on a different road to an altitude of about 5,500 ft, where Volcan is located.  This town is built on the site of Panama’s only volcano, which has been inactive for a very long time.

While in El Valle, which is situated in an ancient volcano crator… my first stop from Panama City, I stayed at the Santa Libre, a popular restaurant with a few rooms to let in the back.  It was recommended by the “Lonely Planet Guidebook to Central America” at $15.00 per night.  It was nothing special, I can certainly tell you that (and worst of all…no internet connection!).  But it had a gorgeous little herb garden in a courtyard just outside my rag tag room.  The little rooming house was also located near a terrific open air farmer’s market just across the street.  So while staying there I had my fill of fresh water, right from freshly cut young coconuts.  What a life!  But the best amenity was another guest in the room right beside me.  Her name was Aldima, a very chatty and friendly woman who was there to enjoy several consecutive days at the El Pozo Hot Springs.  She talked me into going with her to the springs the next morning.  It’s amazing that we were able to communicate as much as we did, since all we had was my Spanish English dictionary.  It worked very well, but as you can imagine, it is an exhausting exercise.   The Hot Springs were something to experience, the mud treatment and all!  We met four wonderful Columbians and had a great time talking and joking in the main pool, buoyed by the warm water for the full span of our allotted bathing time.  Juan Carlos Mancero, an IT project manager, there honeymooning with his lovely bride, helped the conversation along with his excellent English, translating some of the fine points I would have otherwise missed.  I think they pretty much convinced me that I absolutely should not miss Columbia!

Since leaving Panama City, it has been rain, rain and more rain.  We are at the end of the rainy season, but I was told by Leo, the very talented artist in the El Valle Market, that climate change has made the seasons unpredictable.  The last five years have been extraordinarily wet, to the extent that many crops have been ruined.  There is so much water, the plants simply drown.  That afternoon after visiting the hot springs, the rain literally came down in sheets.

Now, I promised to tell you about the harrowing bus ride to El Valle.  While in Panama City, I mostly walked or took taxis, but leaving, I took a Red Devil to the main bus terminal.  That was an experience.  These buses are unique.  They are old converted school buses painted in bright, almost psychedelic colors, have flashy exhaust pipes, and are usually packed to the top with riders.  These are only 25 cents to ride and what a gas!  But my good humor was not to be for long, because the next bus, a little white creaky van in which you are packed like a sardine, was the real devil, and the driver drove like a bat out of hell.  I could not believe it!  Here we were on wet mountain roads, young mothers and little children on board, just flying down the skinny little road!  What if a there was a horse or a cow around the bend?  My heart was in my throat for most of that trip and I could have kissed the ground when we safely arrived in El Valle.    Thankfully, I have ridden many busses since, and have never experienced such reckless driving again.

PARADISE MEETS SOOT (November 28, 2011)

One of the nice things about riding the bus is that you get to see so much of the countryside, and even though Panama is a little country, pretty much the same size as Florida, there is a lot of unspoiled countryside.  The reason is that a huge amount of its people live in Panama City! 

Words absolutely cannot even begin to describe the beauty I see here in the countryside.  It is so lush!  The tropical plants and flowers, bromeliads and orchids, air plants abound, rushing water in streams and rivers that are everywhere, waterfalls I have yet to see, the wildlife, the vibrant green mountains rising up out of the lowlands…it truly is a kind of paradise. 

An undeniable part of Panama’s beauty besides, are the human inhabitants.  There is a natural cheerfulness en masse, and thinking about it,  I realized  I had never before seen this trait in a whole people.  It is a certain purposeful energy, a playful gentleness and ready smile…you almost never walk by a Panamanian on the street without getting a nod and greeting, “Buenas Dias, Senora!”  Yes, it is a good day!  Don’t get me wrong, there are the occasional exceptions.  Sometimes people in the shops and restaurants are a little snippy, but over all, there is no denying that the Panamanians are a happy bunch.  Now I will have some good advice for my depressed friends:  Go to Panama.

But in the midst of all this glory there is a sinister lurker that darkens the sky, sullies the air that we breathe here,  and deadens the fresh flower and forest scents that waft all around.  I am talking about vehicle exhaust.  Obviously, there are no smog requirements that need to be met in Panama.  Perhaps even the gasoline is still leaded?  I don’t know but I wouldn’t doubt it.   Luckily, most of the newer cars have catalytic converters from the manufacturers and other exhaust screening devices, but many of the older vehicles don’t.  It’s all too common to see cars and trucks, big ones and small, tractors, etc. spewing ugly black or white smoke behind them.  Anywhere there is the least bit of traffic, the air is thick with it.  What a shame for the senses (which would otherwise be experiencing a cornucopia of blissful scents!), and what a terrible health hazard for the people, especially the children.  We know now that such exhaust is full of particulates and toxins, many implicated in cancer and heart disease.

One of the nice things about traveling is that you have plenty of time to think (while on the bus!) and this whole subject got me to thinking about how many of us in the U.S. are demanding less government, less government, and less government.  I think that is terribly naïve and unwise.  In demanding that, are we not in danger of being the kind of people who will act so rashly that we will not even notice that the baby has gone out with the bath water?  Maybe what we need is not less government, but better government.  Good government had the foresight to demand that car manufacturers outfitted their products to reduce smog.  Good government bans pharmaceuticals that injure and kill people.  Good government balances our free enterprise system.  I am convinced we cannot get rid of government to the extent being called for without disastrous consequences.  But I will admit that the government we have now is not doing its job properly…it is terribly corrupt.  Responsible government must insure clean air, pure water and a healthy planet, without which none of us will thrive, even if we do manage to survive.  Good government must have constant vigilance from the people…but are we up to that responsibility?  Or have we now gone beyond the point where demonstrations and charming, eloquent politicians who promise change have ceased to have any effect at all?  Readers, I would love to hear what you think.

On that note, and hoping that ya’ll will cut me some slack for that little soapbox trick right at the end J,  I’ll just say, see you later alligator!

I have many pictures to post, but that will have to come later, since I forgot to bring my camera cable to the internet cafe where I am posting this.

So, on my very first morning here, fresh from a case of jet lag and the dark heebie jeebies the night before, I dressed for Latin success (TShirt, Capris and Tenees) and tried the best I could to deal with a case of puffy eyes.  Out the door and into the street I go after a light breakfast of toast, New Zealand butter and café.  I am feeling optimistic again and have only walked about sixty feet downhill when I spied a pretty pink old building with a shingle that read, “Library and Archives of Ricardo Alfaro”.  Never heard of Mr. Alfaro that I can remember, but I do love libraries.  It is enclosed by stately iron grill work, and you must ring to enter.  So I’m just standing there thinking about it, when up the sidewalk comes a guy who says in Spanish, “Do you want to go in?’.  I’m not really sure if I do or not.  My mission is to replace the toothbrush I left at Gary’s house in Visalia.  My mouth is feeling pretty funky about 30  plus hours since the last brushing and I don’t know if I want to talk with anyone right now.  But in a flash he hops up the steps and rings the bell, and just like that a noble and kindly looking gentleman is standing there inviting me in.  The guy in the street immediately disappears!  (I am NOT making this up).

Ricardo Alfaro Library/Archives (don't know what happened to picture quality)

Courtyard in Hostal Urraca 

Photo showing partial view of Hostal Urraca between skyscrapers

Panama Canal

Boat passing through locks at Panama Canal

By the way, I have since discovered that Panamanians are the most helpful and sweet people inhabiting this earth.  In two short days, I have tons of stories to tell you to prove the truth of that statement.   Here’s just one.  I had been directed to a particular restaurant several blocks from the Hostal Urraca by one of the guests there.  When I got to the area, I  couldn’t find it, and to make it more difficult, my new friend didn’t know the name, just a vague location.  I was going further and further afield till I was approaching the outskirts of the financial district with no restaurants to be seen.  Seeing an older woman crossing the street, I decided to ask her if she could point me toward some restaurants in the area.  At this point just about any restaurant would do.  After a few words from me in halting Spanish, she quickly let on she had beautiful English.  We were talking less than one minute, when here comes a young and dashing businessman (I later learned he was a banker) who just slid into our conversation in perfect English and offered his own suggestions.  Would I like Fridays?  I said it would be OK, but did he happen to know of any Panamanian restaurants in the area?   At this point, there was rapido Spanish spoken between the banker and the woman.  Then, “Yes he did!”  And with that, ignoring my protests, he escorted me on foot about a city block and a half to a restaurant called Don Blas, where I enjoyed an excellent meal!  I am so dazzled by these lovely people!

But, Oh I do digress!  Back at the library, I learned that Ricardo Alfaro was the former president of Panama, and a friend and confident to many U.S. presidents, including the great Franklin D. Roosevelt.  President Alfaro was a meticulous man and kept all of his correspondence and other documents. Later, these were carefully and beautifully archived in white binders, and are now kept in a climate controlled chamber.  Ivan, his grandson, gave me the most wonderful private tour of the archives and all the exhibits that were there, including Ricardo Alfaro’s personal library and actual office.   Everything I saw and heard pointed to the fact that President Alfaro cared deeply for the people of Panama.  And, he was a great admirer of Abe Lincoln.  I learned so much about Panama’s and our own history that day!  I can’t think of a better way I could have spent my first waking hours in Panama, and to think I almost missed it but for the stranger walking by!   If you are visiting Panama City, please do not miss this:  EL MUSEO BIBLIOTECA ARCHIVO RICARDO J. ALFARO, Edificio Hispania, Calle 44 and Calle Colombia, Bella Vista, Panama.  fundarja@cwpanama.net

After that I purchased my toothbrush and a washcloth (the hostals give you a minuscule bar of soap and one bath towel), ate only some of the parts of pigs knuckles  (yikes!  I thought it was chicken!) I got at a neighborhood cafeteria, and walked back to the hostal.  Then, after a good tooth brushing and a little siesta, off to the Panama Canal by taxi.   There I learned that some of the things I told you in another blog are not true!  The canal is 60 miles long, not 80.  And according to the people who really do know, although it is very expensive to pass through the canal, it is definitely NOT one million U.S. dollars.  Sorry about that.  I’ll be far more careful vetting my facts and figures in the future.

Tomorrow when I post, I will tell you about my harrowing ride in a “red devil” bus today, and my even more harrowing bus trip from Panama City to El Valle, where I am tonight as I write this.  I am now at a higher altitude where it is cooler.   Till then, Chao!

Buenas Dias!

This marks the second full day in Panama.  Readers, from this point forward, you will probably be hearing a lot more from me, even though I hate to think of those with very busy schedules and not much time for reading on the internet.  Hang on, because I have a lot of words inside pushing to come out.  If you're interested, be forewarned that keeping up with this blog will take some time.  I can no longer guarantee that my postings will be read in 10 minutes or less!  Or even if they can be, I will be posting A LOT more frequently, so please make sure to check back frequently.

The trip over here was excruciating, with an overnight layover in Houston.  By the way, Houston is the only airport I've ever known with a guarantee that their food prices will not exceed those in the city.  Who ever heard of reasonable food prices at the airport?  Not me, and given the layover time when everything was closed, I didn't benefit.  Luckily, I had more than enough reading and listening material to help pass those hours between midnight and 6 a.m.

When I finally arrived in Panama City, I was cross eyed with fatigue since I had not slept in more than 24 hours.  The Hostal had sent out a taxi for me and was I ever happy to see my name on white cardboard in front of a smiling Latin driver (Roberto).  When he returned to where I was with his cab, I was horrified!  This car was early model sub-compact with all the sub safety features you could imagine.  No seat belts, a huge smash on the drivers side of the windshield, in short, this was a dilapidated automobile...one I hesitated to enter.  But I did, and to my relief, the driver knew some English, was very pleasant, and most importantly, he drove slowly all the way to the Hostal Urraca, surrounded by maniac drivers, but without incident.  Then, when I arrived here and was shown my room, I could not get over how small it was!  About three times the size of my closet at home.  But it was located right near the shared bathroom, and had everything I needed, so what the heck, I dove into bed and slept for hours.  When I awoke, there were so many strange sounds coming out of my window which faces some kind of an alley way.  I couldn't really see much because of the frosted louver windows.  Oh, and did I mention the temperature?  It was hot and humid (still is!) and no air, just a fan anchored up three quarters of the way to the very tall ceiling.  This building is sandwiched between two skyscrapers!  That's how it is here, mix and match.  I had no idea how long I had slept.  It was dark out, and I would have to connect my computer to see the time and I wasn't even having any of that.  I decided to skip dinner, if it was indeed around that time (who knew), and went back to sleep until morning.  The time difference from CA is 3 hours.  Panama is 3 hours ahead of Pacific time, just like New England.  And something that endeared Panama to me immediately...no Daylight Savings Time!

Now, when I finally awoke the next morning around 8:00 (which would be 5:00 a.m. Pacific Time), things started really looking up.  I hadn't yet mentioned that when I awoke earlier in the darkness, how my thoughts had turned dark as well.  A lot of doubts struggled in to keep me awake for awhile, and I was having thoughts such as, how am I ever going to navigate the bus system with the little Spanish I know?  What in the world am I ever going to do tomorrow and what ever possessed me to even come here?  Honest, I was having a lot of doubts before I finally fell back to sleep.  But the next morning, I knew what I had to do.  It was very simple really, and that was:  GET DRESSED.  Ahhhh, back to baby steps, which is how I managed to land here.

More later...I'm not stopping here because I want to.  It's just that it is almost 9:00 a.m. and today I'm going to El Valle (The Valley), which is about half-way to David, my original second destination.  It is just that I learned that I would love to stop there from other travelers (beautiful young people from the Peace Corp staying here), and an extremely gracious gentleman I met yesterday at the Library/Archives of Ricardo J. Alfaro, esteemed Justice, Author, United Nations Diplomat, Ambassador to the United States, and former President of Panama.  President Alfaro was so extremely accomplished in this life, that I know I have missed many of the roles he played to benefit the Panamanian people.  I promise to write more on this when I come back, since visiting this museum was the first thing I did, and one of the most (I am not exaggerating) magical experiences of my life.  I'll be back, so you be back!

It's Time

For all of you who have been asking me from the very beginning of this process, "When are you going?", I can finally say, after months, weeks, days and minute by minute handling of excruciating details, "The time is NOW!"  Yes, I am flying out of Fresno tomorrow, on a flight with two layovers (LA and Houston) that is headed for Panama City.  A friend is driving me to the airport with a breakfast stop first.  Airport food is awful, and the trip will be a long one, much of it waiting for connecting flights.  Leaving Fresno at 2:28 pm Sunday, I won't arrive until 1:55 pm on Monday.

I decided upon Panama for a number of reasons, including the fact that it is central to Central and South America, being located in the very middle of the two continents.  Also, they are friendly to Americans (at least as far as I know).  Panama is also cash rich because of the Panama Canal.  An investment advisor I met recently told me that the big tankers pay one million American dolares for each 80 mile crossing.  And when you consider how many crossings there are daily (tons and tons), that's some kind of income!  There is still not much of a middle class, unfortunately, and plenty of poor people, but I will fill you in more on that when I get there.  I am staying at the Hostal Urraca for 3 days in a nice area of Panama City, just a few blocks from the water.

 
Hostal Urraca, Panama City

Nothing fancy, but it is full of character (see more pictures at Expedia.com).  Then I received an email from one of the hostel's staff advising me (in Spanish!) that I can be picked up at the airport for a nominal charge.  This is great, because I know I will be exhausted and will want to crash immediately, without looking all over creation for the hostel.  I've learned that addresses in Central America do not usually follow any particular rhyme or reason; that often someone gives directions saying, "such and such is by so and so down near the river.  That won't do after a 24 hour trip!

Today I sold my car.  What is amazing is that I have never before felt so extraordinarily lucky.  So many events during the planning of this trip have been completely serendipitous, and I have never before experienced almost constant occurrences of synchronicity, especially during this last month.  As an example, the woman who bought my car is from Peru, and she made me a list of contacts there.  Another woman who owns a favorite Visalian Restaurant, spied the for sale sign, called about it, and when she learned I was selling the car because of my move, was thrilled to hear I would be visiting Costa Rica.  Turns out she had lived there for a year and would return tomorrow if she could.  She didn't buy the car (too small for her son's young family), but she had tons of information she very generously shared with me.  Overall, I have sold every last thing I needed to, and the things I kept fit snugly into the 10' by 5' indoor storage space I am renting.  And getting back to the car, how lucky that I had transportation almost to the hour of my departure!  These occurrences have boggled my mind, and trust me, these are only a few that I am sharing with you here, out of many!

                                          Sold!

Well, that's it for tonight, since I have a huge day tomorrow.  Hard to believe that it is actually here and that I am leaving a home that I have known and loved for about a third of my life.  Good night to all!

Really, but Why?

"You're kidding me...why?"  This is the question I get more than any other when I choose to reveal, I am forced to say, or someone has heard about my plans for the trip through the grapevine.  "Central America?!"  "Are you crazy?!!"  I have come to give these questions a lot of thought because I know many times I have not answered them properly.  It's hard to describe briefly all the myriad reasons that have gone into this decision.  My best response so far, I think, has been, "Please understand that I'm not trying to be a smart aleck when I say this, but it is because I can".  That answer usually gives the questioner pause, and then other questions follow.  But not before I try to clarify my response.  "What I mean is", I say, "I am really free to do this!"   I go on to say that many people have all kinds of ties that keep them in one spot.  One day it suddenly became very clear to me that I did not, so why not?    Is this what they call foot loose and fancy free?  Maybe...I only know that at one point, I leaped out of bed at 3 a.m. and said to myself, "Woman, you had better get up and go!"


Speaking of ties, aside from my occasional discomfort when I'm asked "why", what I've really come to enjoy are the conversations with people who I wouldn't ordinarily speak with.  You know how it is, you are briskly moving along in the course of your day, and you are intent on scratching off at least a couple of items on the "to do" list, so there's really not much time to talk to strangers.  Here's an example.  A few days ago I was at the bank depositing my nifty little take from my latest yard sale (still paying AT&T).  I was quite pleased to get my favorite teller instead of the guy who gives me a big pain.  Last time I saw him I needed 20 penny wrappers...he gave me 15 with a big fake smile (you know the type!) and told me that was all he had (without asking another teller!)  As a result, I had to wrap pennies in plastic baggies...but I digress.  While making the deposit with my favorite teller, we talk about the trip, and she said, "Oh, I would love to do something like that, but I can't leave my mother".   The way she said that, with great thoughtfulness, I could tell she loves her mother very much.  There she is in her life...would taking a trip to Timbuktu be better for her?  I would have to say, "Not necessarily so!".  Not that I am any expert, but I believe that Love, with the capital L, trumps all.  Wait, there's more...


While the teller is making my deposit and we are talking, it seems a Mexican couple at the next teller booth are listening.  When I finish my business and am walking out the door, the woman stops me and asks where I am going in Central America (wow...I must have a loud mouth!).  Her husband hangs back (he may not speak very good English), but she is very talkative and curious to know as many details as I am willing to tell.  She is so wistful and tells me how lucky I am, how they (she and her husband) would love to do that if they could.  I ask her if she can speak Spanish.  She answers yes, she is fluent in both Spanish and English.  So I say to her that she is very lucky!  She can speak Spanish and English in an English speaking country, and that when I relocate in a Spanish speaking country, I will have to become fluent in that foreign (to me) language.


I have told you this whole story, because I want to share with you some of what has motivated me to this point in my preparations.  I am running out of time for this entry, and I have not yet said many of the things I wanted to express.  Well, there will be another post, but please allow me just one more moment of your time.


Last night a friend who is also considering a trip to Central/South America invited me to watch a film called "The Motorcycle Diaries".  While we watched, he had his notebook opened to Google Earth and we traced the progress of the trip from Cordova, Argentina (where Che Guevara was born), to Chili, Peru, and all the way up to Venezuela.  There is breathtaking footage of the vibrant countryside and Incan ruins in Peru, the great Amazon river, seaside villages in Chili, and so much more.  It is a true story about Ernesto "Che" Guevara, who had almost completed medical school, and his close friend, who was studying Biochemistry at the University, when they decided to take a break from their studies and make that trip.  That trip changed the entire course of Che's life.   It is in Spanish with subtitles, which is always a big help to me as I try to learn the language.  I give the film 5 *****.  I hope you will check it out on Netflix or whatever and let me know what you think!  You won't be sorry.  Till next time!  (Hugs and kisses for reading this far!)  :)  Cynthia

Wheeeee!!!!

Oh it's so good to be back!  I think about posting here all the time, in between yard sales, multiple dental appointments, e-mails that proliferate like bunnies underfoot, and daily anxiety attacks!  The time is drawing near so quickly!  The buyer needed a co-signer...oh no!...but here comes the Dad to the rescue.  Whew!  But the real estate agent still cautions, "Don't buy that plane ticket yet!"  Anything can happen!  Nothing is definite until the deal actually closes.


So here I sit in an office with many books and one bookcase less, near my living room that now has an echo in it.  Through 5 (yes 5!) yard sales (some more successful than others), and numerous, repetitious advertisements on Craig's List, I have managed to convert at least one half of my belongings into cold hard cash.  I've come to think that furnishing my home was like freeze framing little portions of life...I never stopped to think before this experience, about just how heavy it had become!  Downsizing is such an eye opener!  As I review each item, hmmmm, to keep or not to keep.  This can be an excruciating question, especially when  need to answer it again and again, sometimes with objects you had forgotten you had.  It seems never ending!  I have been fantasizing regularly about what it will feel like to be finally on the plane, lighter than air with only one small suitcase, jetting toward a whole new life. 


And the new life I have envisioned!  If only one quarter of what I see comes to fruition, what a happy, grateful camper I will be.  Already things seem to be falling into place.  Just tonight Chamisa was adopted into a very loving home, with an beautiful older man I met at one of my yard sales.  We have become friends and I have no doubt that Chamisa will have the love and attention I had hoped for her.  


One of my old friends who I met when I first came to California, a literacy teacher at our local adult school, came to visit last week.  I hadn't known that for several years now, she (Keren) and her husband have been visiting Central America every winter.  They often fly into Panama!  She is a wealth of information and from all the things she has shared so far, I know I am on the right path.  Keren and I have a lot in common.  We both love to read and raise chickens!  She has had a large flock ever since I knew her.


Enough about me.  Two events have happened that are of enormous importance, and I would like to take a moment, if you don't mind, to comment about them.  First, Steve Jobs.  I was never a huge fan of his while he lived, and I'm sorry to say that I never knew that much about him till he died.  What I have learned has been such an inspiration.  Thank you so much Steve Jobs!  You were a being full of love and light!  And I'm sure you still are, somewhere.


What do you think about the "Occupation of Wall Street"?  What is happening?!  We the people!  The sleeping giant is awakening!  It is incredible, wonderful!  We are saying to those few banksters who would garner all the wealth for themselves and the hell with everyone else, employing fraud and all sorts of nefarious activities for their own selfish aggrandizement, "No - no more!".  No matter the political persuasion, everyone I know has suffered at least some loss or marginalization because of the highly unethical and downright illegal actions of these perpetrators.  I'm so proud of those people in New York (I hope my relatives from CT are there at Zuccotti Park!), and if I wasn't so busy trying to tie up my business here, I would definitely be in LA or San Francisco in solidarity with all the people!  Power to the People!  WE ARE ONE.  I am not religious, but I do believe with all my heart that we are here to help each other.


Just one more thing...a housekeeping issue.  I had thought that by joining, people would receive each posting by email.  But from what I understand, that has not been happening.  I don't know if that is a bug in the blog, like some others I have noticed, or if you have to check back in periodically.  If that's the case, I have been posting about every three weeks.  I hope to write more once I am actually on the road.  And just so you'll know...if you sign up "private" you will be invisible to everyone, even me.   Also, it seems that the comments are not showing up.  If it is something I can fix, I will try to do that.  Thank you for reading!

Approaching the Autumn Equinox

Moving right along!  Or not....  Although I was shooting for a departure date of Sept. 15th...we have already blown by that, and now it looks to be the house will need another 3 weeks before closing (so say my Realtors).  That is OK, because there is still a lot left to do.  Three yard sales later, and there is still an incredible amount of things to unload, including my car.  I am planning yet another sale October 1, and more extensive listings of articles for sale on Craigslist.  Hey if you need anything at all, I probably have it, Cheap!  I think I told you in my last blog that I would limit myself to 2 boxes of books....NOT!  That number has increased to 3 and then no more!


There are still some dental matters to be finalized, and many, many goodbyes to say.  More on that later, but first I want to thank the people who have signed up here...when I think of how homesick I am going to be those first few months, your presence here, and hopefully on SKYPE, too, will be more important than even I can yet imagine!  And thank you for your comments, both here and the encouraging emails I have received.  I am so sincerely and deeply grateful to have you along for this ride.

Slick Rock, Three Rivers, CA (Foothills of the Sierra Nevada)

Parting with things that have been with me for years and years is difficult enough, but parting from people here and my beautiful adopted state of California, is nothing less than just awful.  I never did like good-byes, and I am just plain not good at them.  And although I lived in Visalia for the last 20 years, it's really Hanford that captured my heart completely.  As many of you know, I worked there for many years as a "pre-need" agent for Whitehurst McNamara Funeral Home.  Maybe it was familiar to me from another lifetime, or whatever, but I had a tremendous sense of peace and comfort in that community, and the people I met and came to know and love there will always have a special place in my heart.  Two of these dear friends, Debbie and Veronica, helped me say goodbye to my beloved Sierra Nevada mountains (Sequoia National Park) the weekend before Labor Day.  We had lunch at Wuksachi Lodge, and did the Lodgepole hike.  It was a perfect day!  And recently, there was a goodbye get together...thanks ya'll!


OK, so here's the plan.  As I said, I want to keep my itinerary flexible, so in case something comes up that is irresistible, I can say yes! without a great deal of troublesome alterations.  I will fly into Panama City first, and spend a couple of nights at a hostel there that I found on Expedia.  Nothing fancy (this trip is not a vacation from work so I don't expect anything to be fancy!), and from there I will travel to David, a larger city near the mountainous region of Panama.  I have read of a volunteer project in the forest there that I may want to check out.  That would give me an opportunity to meet some people and make contacts.  In whatever I do, I will try to avoid "being in a hurry"....isn't that the Latin way?  Manana!   This part of Panama is near the southern end of Costa Rica, so I will then travel there.  I hear that the buses are usually very modern and comfortable and everyone uses them.  And I'm told that Costa Rica is THE place for American Expats...we'll see!


Stay tuned!  

"Chamisa"

P.S.  I still need a home for the silky little timid flower, "Chamisa".  A loving older person(s) who can lavish attention upon her deserving beautiful self would be ideal.

Much to Do About Everything

In planning for a move to another continent, there are a million and one considerations...many things that I never ever gave a single thought to previously.  But among those, here is what I found to be most important, and the most difficult:




1.  Selling your house in the worst possible market.  After a slow start with "For Sale By Owner" and an unwise choice of a real estate agent who I later fired, I lucked out in finding a team of two Realtors who have boundless energy, great good humor, and it seems, a passion for selling my house!  One week after I listed with Roy Kendall Company, Roy (Broker) and Gracie Banda (Agent & Past Loan Officer) they brought me a signed offer.  This is a stressful business, but believe me, they are a delight...I am very fortunate to have found them.  It is not a done deal yet.  Banks are now using every excuse possible NOT to loan.  It seems crazy, but I know from first hand experience this is true.  So I'm just sitting on pins and needles.  If I'm unable to sell....I don't even want to think about it!




2.  Finding the right person/people who will love and care for your animals.
I wrote a description of my cats for adoption/foster care called, "A Tail of Three Kitties".  I had posted it at the Senior Center down the street, and e-mailed it to many friends hoping for a happy outcome.  Nothing for months.  Then, my dear friend Louise Maynard, who has a fairy-tale ranch of about 28 acres in the foothills of Orosi, said she would care for two of my cats, Bob and Julie.  They are inseparable and I just know they will be very happy with Louise and Wayne, two of the best and kindest people on the planet.  They will have other animal friends including four horses, (Charger, Trigger, Leland and Punkin), 2 darling dogs (Bear and ) and one Siamese cat named Mickey.  Not to mention the sheep and goats.  What an adventure for my two lucky cats!  I'm sure they'll meet with many unlucky gophers.  I plan to return for Bob & Julie in about 6 months when I am settled into my new home.


My other cat, Chamisa, a beautiful black manx, rescued as a kitten from a feral pride about 3 years ago, is the most affectionate of all, and I have not yet found a home for her.  Hers will be a permanent adoption.  To understand why, you will have to read "The Tail of Three Kitties".  I will be happy to send you that story. 


Sadly, my adopted cat from the local animal shelter, Queen Josephine, left this realm one week ago today.  She was close to twenty years, had suffered a stroke in March, and her health had deteriorated to a very low point.  Josie was with us from 1995.  She was the most sociable of my cats and had many friends and admirers.  She is greatly missed.

3.  In the midst of dealing with the loss of Josie, I'm looking at all the things I have thus far accumulated in my life, and knowing that it is going to be hell parting with most of these.  How did I ever get to be so materialistic?  This is something I definitely need to change.  I have decided to keep very little.  I am parting with all of my business clothing, and about 80% of all the rest.  For example, out of about 25 pairs of shoes, I plan on taking only maybe 3 pair.  Furniture...out.  Books...(this is really hard...out of 3 large bookcases, I will allow myself two small boxes.  The rest...gone.  Music?  I hope to digitalize what I want to keep from my CD's.  I could go on and on, but let's just say, I hope that I can pare my belongings down to what can fit in a 100 sq. foot container or less.  If anyone has had experience with this, please let me hear from you!  This process makes me greatly admire my late father, who managed to move to California with what he carried on the airplane, and two mailed parcels, one containing his tools.




4.  An awful lot of time is spent researching the various countries of Central and South America, learning about the economies, politics, customs, accommodations, climate, modes of travel, all of this and more and it is endlessly interesting but so time consuming!  Luckily, there are many web-sites designed for ex-pats in all the different countries, with people who made the move and share their experiences with you.  Valuable contacts can be made on sites like these.  All the various governments, including the United States, have websites with invaluable information, also.  At first I was concerned about Visas, but soon learned that most of these countries allow you to visit for 90 days with just your passport before further documentation is needed.  So that is one thing that can wait!  But did you know that in most of these countries a bank will not accept your initial deposit without a letter of reference from your former bank in the U.S.?


Well, I think that's enough for this post.  There is so much more to say, but I'll save it for the next time...maybe I could address some of the philosophical considerations involved in a move like this.  Or, better yet, maybe my dear readers have some questions and I could write to those!  I look forward to your comments!  Adios, mi amigos!

This is It!

Well, here's to the adventure of my life.  To many of you this will be a big surprise...I have not talked a lot about it because of some advice I received from an artist friend long ago.  Harnie (what a name!) said, "Never talk about what you plan or hope to do, because it dissipates the energy you need to accomplish it."


In case this is the first you've heard, I'm leaving for Central America sometime in mid-September, and from there I plan to explore some of South America.  I do not have a firm itinerary, except that I plan to fly to Panama, visit Costa Rica, maybe Ecuador, then bus (or sail?!) to Chile and over the Andes to Argentina.  I do have some Spanish, and have taken a conversational course this summer...  And eventually, I hope to find,  you guessed it, a little farm!  I know... from Canada, Washington, Oregon, California, to another continent!  So be it.


This idea to go came to me out of the blue very late one night, and would not allow me to go back to sleep.  I suddenly knew I had to make a drastic change in my life...one that would shake me fully awake in my very core.  And trust me, it already has done just that.  The whole process of deciding where to go, what to do, how to relieve myself of most all of my possessions (and my babies...my cats!), and all the thousands of details that need to be looked into or taken care of...all this and more has since kept me awake for what feels like years (but in reality only the last few months)!  It is a nerve-wracking, crazy, and totally exciting time in my life.


I decided to do this blog, on the advice of my dear friend Martha Alexandros.  She said that other people who are contemplating doing the same thing, or some variation of it, would be interested to know the process involved right from the beginning.  At first I didn't think that there would be enough to write about until I actually set foot in Central America.  But now I know better, because the emotional landscape alone, right inside my poor tired head, is full of incredible color!  Believe me, there is a lot I want to share with you right this very moment.  But I think I should keep these posts short and sweet, so as not to tire my very busy readers.


What a wonderful thing it would be if you would come along; my dearest friends, family, travelers all, and share this experience with me!   I will post often, my thoughts and pictures, and I hope that you will comment.  We can have some lively discussions.  I doubt I will have a cell phone in the beginning and I'm sure there will be lonely moments...your comments will mean so much to me!  If you have questions, (and you may well have after this shockeroo) please send those to me at cynthiakoval@yahoo.com, rather than posting them here.  Thanks for reading this, and, please do accompany me on this journey.