Tuesday, November 29, 2011

PARADISE MEETS SOOT (November 28, 2011)


One of the nice things about riding the bus is that you get to see so much of the countryside, and even though Panama is a little country, pretty much the same size as Florida, there is a lot of unspoiled countryside.  The reason is that a huge amount of its people live in Panama City! 

Words absolutely cannot even begin to describe the beauty I see here in the countryside.  It is so lush!  The tropical plants and flowers, bromeliads and orchids, air plants abound, rushing water in streams and rivers that are everywhere, waterfalls I have yet to see, the wildlife, the vibrant green mountains rising up out of the lowlands…it truly is a kind of paradise. 

An undeniable part of Panama’s beauty besides, are the human inhabitants.  There is a natural cheerfulness en masse, and thinking about it,  I realized  I had never before seen this trait in a whole people.  It is a certain purposeful energy, a playful gentleness and ready smile…you almost never walk by a Panamanian on the street without getting a nod and greeting, “Buenas Dias, Senora!”  Yes, it is a good day!  Don’t get me wrong, there are the occasional exceptions.  Sometimes people in the shops and restaurants are a little snippy, but over all, there is no denying that the Panamanians are a happy bunch.  Now I will have some good advice for my depressed friends:  Go to Panama.

But in the midst of all this glory there is a sinister lurker that darkens the sky, sullies the air that we breathe here,  and deadens the fresh flower and forest scents that waft all around.  I am talking about vehicle exhaust.  Obviously, there are no smog requirements that need to be met in Panama.  Perhaps even the gasoline is still leaded?  I don’t know but I wouldn’t doubt it.   Luckily, most of the newer cars have catalytic converters from the manufacturers and other exhaust screening devices, but many of the older vehicles don’t.  It’s all too common to see cars and trucks, big ones and small, tractors, etc. spewing ugly black or white smoke behind them.  Anywhere there is the least bit of traffic, the air is thick with it.  What a shame for the senses (which would otherwise be experiencing a cornucopia of blissful scents!), and what a terrible health hazard for the people, especially the children.  We know now that such exhaust is full of particulates and toxins, many implicated in cancer and heart disease.

One of the nice things about traveling is that you have plenty of time to think (while on the bus!) and this whole subject got me to thinking about how many of us in the U.S. are demanding less government, less government, and less government.  I think that is terribly naïve and unwise.  In demanding that, are we not in danger of being the kind of people who will act so rashly that we will not even notice that the baby has gone out with the bath water?  Maybe what we need is not less government, but better government.  Good government had the foresight to demand that car manufacturers outfitted their products to reduce smog.  Good government bans pharmaceuticals that injure and kill people.  Good government balances our free enterprise system.  I am convinced we cannot get rid of government to the extent being called for without disastrous consequences.  But I will admit that the government we have now is not doing its job properly…it is terribly corrupt.  Responsible government must insure clean air, pure water and a healthy planet, without which none of us will thrive, even if we do manage to survive.  Good government must have constant vigilance from the people…but are we up to that responsibility?  Or have we now gone beyond the point where demonstrations and charming, eloquent politicians who promise change have ceased to have any effect at all?  Readers, I would love to hear what you think.

On that note, and hoping that ya’ll will cut me some slack for that little soapbox trick right at the end J,  I’ll just say, see you later alligator!

I have many pictures to post, but that will have to come later, since I forgot to bring my camera cable to the internet cafe where I am posting this.

Thursday, November 24, 2011


So, on my very first morning here, fresh from a case of jet lag and the dark heebie jeebies the night before, I dressed for Latin success (TShirt, Capris and Tenees) and tried the best I could to deal with a case of puffy eyes.  Out the door and into the street I go after a light breakfast of toast, New Zealand butter and café.  I am feeling optimistic again and have only walked about sixty feet downhill when I spied a pretty pink old building with a shingle that read, “Library and Archives of Ricardo Alfaro”.  Never heard of Mr. Alfaro that I can remember, but I do love libraries.  It is enclosed by stately iron grill work, and you must ring to enter.  So I’m just standing there thinking about it, when up the sidewalk comes a guy who says in Spanish, “Do you want to go in?’.  I’m not really sure if I do or not.  My mission is to replace the toothbrush I left at Gary’s house in Visalia.  My mouth is feeling pretty funky about 30  plus hours since the last brushing and I don’t know if I want to talk with anyone right now.  But in a flash he hops up the steps and rings the bell, and just like that a noble and kindly looking gentleman is standing there inviting me in.  The guy in the street immediately disappears!  (I am NOT making this up).

Ricardo Alfaro Library/Archives (don't know what happened to picture quality)

Courtyard in Hostal Urraca 

Photo showing partial view of Hostal Urraca between skyscrapers

Panama Canal

Boat passing through locks at Panama Canal
By the way, I have since discovered that Panamanians are the most helpful and sweet people inhabiting this earth.  In two short days, I have tons of stories to tell you to prove the truth of that statement.   Here’s just one.  I had been directed to a particular restaurant several blocks from the Hostal Urraca by one of the guests there.  When I got to the area, I  couldn’t find it, and to make it more difficult, my new friend didn’t know the name, just a vague location.  I was going further and further afield till I was approaching the outskirts of the financial district with no restaurants to be seen.  Seeing an older woman crossing the street, I decided to ask her if she could point me toward some restaurants in the area.  At this point just about any restaurant would do.  After a few words from me in halting Spanish, she quickly let on she had beautiful English.  We were talking less than one minute, when here comes a young and dashing businessman (I later learned he was a banker) who just slid into our conversation in perfect English and offered his own suggestions.  Would I like Fridays?  I said it would be OK, but did he happen to know of any Panamanian restaurants in the area?   At this point, there was rapido Spanish spoken between the banker and the woman.  Then, “Yes he did!”  And with that, ignoring my protests, he escorted me on foot about a city block and a half to a restaurant called Don Blas, where I enjoyed an excellent meal!  I am so dazzled by these lovely people!
But, Oh I do digress!  Back at the library, I learned that Ricardo Alfaro was the former president of Panama, and a friend and confident to many U.S. presidents, including the great Franklin D. Roosevelt.  President Alfaro was a meticulous man and kept all of his correspondence and other documents. Later, these were carefully and beautifully archived in white binders, and are now kept in a climate controlled chamber.  Ivan, his grandson, gave me the most wonderful private tour of the archives and all the exhibits that were there, including Ricardo Alfaro’s personal library and actual office.   Everything I saw and heard pointed to the fact that President Alfaro cared deeply for the people of Panama.  And, he was a great admirer of Abe Lincoln.  I learned so much about Panama’s and our own history that day!  I can’t think of a better way I could have spent my first waking hours in Panama, and to think I almost missed it but for the stranger walking by!   If you are visiting Panama City, please do not miss this:  EL MUSEO BIBLIOTECA ARCHIVO RICARDO J. ALFARO, Edificio Hispania, Calle 44 and Calle Colombia, Bella Vista, Panama.  fundarja@cwpanama.net
After that I purchased my toothbrush and a washcloth (the hostals give you a minuscule bar of soap and one bath towel), ate only some of the parts of pigs knuckles  (yikes!  I thought it was chicken!) I got at a neighborhood cafeteria, and walked back to the hostal.  Then, after a good tooth brushing and a little siesta, off to the Panama Canal by taxi.   There I learned that some of the things I told you in another blog are not true!  The canal is 60 miles long, not 80.  And according to the people who really do know, although it is very expensive to pass through the canal, it is definitely NOT one million U.S. dollars.  Sorry about that.  I’ll be far more careful vetting my facts and figures in the future.
Tomorrow when I post, I will tell you about my harrowing ride in a “red devil” bus today, and my even more harrowing bus trip from Panama City to El Valle, where I am tonight as I write this.  I am now at a higher altitude where it is cooler.   Till then, Chao!

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Buenas Dias!

This marks the second full day in Panama.  Readers, from this point forward, you will probably be hearing a lot more from me, even though I hate to think of those with very busy schedules and not much time for reading on the internet.  Hang on, because I have a lot of words inside pushing to come out.  If you're interested, be forewarned that keeping up with this blog will take some time.  I can no longer guarantee that my postings will be read in 10 minutes or less!  Or even if they can be, I will be posting A LOT more frequently, so please make sure to check back frequently.

The trip over here was excruciating, with an overnight layover in Houston.  By the way, Houston is the only airport I've ever known with a guarantee that their food prices will not exceed those in the city.  Who ever heard of reasonable food prices at the airport?  Not me, and given the layover time when everything was closed, I didn't benefit.  Luckily, I had more than enough reading and listening material to help pass those hours between midnight and 6 a.m.

When I finally arrived in Panama City, I was cross eyed with fatigue since I had not slept in more than 24 hours.  The Hostal had sent out a taxi for me and was I ever happy to see my name on white cardboard in front of a smiling Latin driver (Roberto).  When he returned to where I was with his cab, I was horrified!  This car was early model sub-compact with all the sub safety features you could imagine.  No seat belts, a huge smash on the drivers side of the windshield, in short, this was a dilapidated automobile...one I hesitated to enter.  But I did, and to my relief, the driver knew some English, was very pleasant, and most importantly, he drove slowly all the way to the Hostal Urraca, surrounded by maniac drivers, but without incident.  Then, when I arrived here and was shown my room, I could not get over how small it was!  About three times the size of my closet at home.  But it was located right near the shared bathroom, and had everything I needed, so what the heck, I dove into bed and slept for hours.  When I awoke, there were so many strange sounds coming out of my window which faces some kind of an alley way.  I couldn't really see much because of the frosted louver windows.  Oh, and did I mention the temperature?  It was hot and humid (still is!) and no air, just a fan anchored up three quarters of the way to the very tall ceiling.  This building is sandwiched between two skyscrapers!  That's how it is here, mix and match.  I had no idea how long I had slept.  It was dark out, and I would have to connect my computer to see the time and I wasn't even having any of that.  I decided to skip dinner, if it was indeed around that time (who knew), and went back to sleep until morning.  The time difference from CA is 3 hours.  Panama is 3 hours ahead of Pacific time, just like New England.  And something that endeared Panama to me immediately...no Daylight Savings Time!

Now, when I finally awoke the next morning around 8:00 (which would be 5:00 a.m. Pacific Time), things started really looking up.  I hadn't yet mentioned that when I awoke earlier in the darkness, how my thoughts had turned dark as well.  A lot of doubts struggled in to keep me awake for awhile, and I was having thoughts such as, how am I ever going to navigate the bus system with the little Spanish I know?  What in the world am I ever going to do tomorrow and what ever possessed me to even come here?  Honest, I was having a lot of doubts before I finally fell back to sleep.  But the next morning, I knew what I had to do.  It was very simple really, and that was:  GET DRESSED.  Ahhhh, back to baby steps, which is how I managed to land here.

More later...I'm not stopping here because I want to.  It's just that it is almost 9:00 a.m. and today I'm going to El Valle (The Valley), which is about half-way to David, my original second destination.  It is just that I learned that I would love to stop there from other travelers (beautiful young people from the Peace Corp staying here), and an extremely gracious gentleman I met yesterday at the Library/Archives of Ricardo J. Alfaro, esteemed Justice, Author, United Nations Diplomat, Ambassador to the United States, and former President of Panama.  President Alfaro was so extremely accomplished in this life, that I know I have missed many of the roles he played to benefit the Panamanian people.  I promise to write more on this when I come back, since visiting this museum was the first thing I did, and one of the most (I am not exaggerating) magical experiences of my life.  I'll be back, so you be back!

Saturday, November 19, 2011

It's Time

For all of you who have been asking me from the very beginning of this process, "When are you going?", I can finally say, after months, weeks, days and minute by minute handling of excruciating details, "The time is NOW!"  Yes, I am flying out of Fresno tomorrow, on a flight with two layovers (LA and Houston) that is headed for Panama City.  A friend is driving me to the airport with a breakfast stop first.  Airport food is awful, and the trip will be a long one, much of it waiting for connecting flights.  Leaving Fresno at 2:28 pm Sunday, I won't arrive until 1:55 pm on Monday.

I decided upon Panama for a number of reasons, including the fact that it is central to Central and South America, being located in the very middle of the two continents.  Also, they are friendly to Americans (at least as far as I know).  Panama is also cash rich because of the Panama Canal.  An investment advisor I met recently told me that the big tankers pay one million American dolares for each 80 mile crossing.  And when you consider how many crossings there are daily (tons and tons), that's some kind of income!  There is still not much of a middle class, unfortunately, and plenty of poor people, but I will fill you in more on that when I get there.  I am staying at the Hostal Urraca for 3 days in a nice area of Panama City, just a few blocks from the water.

 Hostal Urraca, Panama City, Panama, Featured Image
Hostal Urraca, Panama City

Nothing fancy, but it is full of character (see more pictures at Expedia.com).  Then I received an email from one of the hostel's staff advising me (in Spanish!) that I can be picked up at the airport for a nominal charge.  This is great, because I know I will be exhausted and will want to crash immediately, without looking all over creation for the hostel.  I've learned that addresses in Central America do not usually follow any particular rhyme or reason; that often someone gives directions saying, "such and such is by so and so down near the river.  That won't do after a 24 hour trip!

Today I sold my car.  What is amazing is that I have never before felt so extraordinarily lucky.  So many events during the planning of this trip have been completely serendipitous, and I have never before experienced almost constant occurrences of synchronicity, especially during this last month.  As an example, the woman who bought my car is from Peru, and she made me a list of contacts there.  Another woman who owns a favorite Visalian Restaurant, spied the for sale sign, called about it, and when she learned I was selling the car because of my move, was thrilled to hear I would be visiting Costa Rica.  Turns out she had lived there for a year and would return tomorrow if she could.  She didn't buy the car (too small for her son's young family), but she had tons of information she very generously shared with me.  Overall, I have sold every last thing I needed to, and the things I kept fit snugly into the 10' by 5' indoor storage space I am renting.  And getting back to the car, how lucky that I had transportation almost to the hour of my departure!  These occurrences have boggled my mind, and trust me, these are only a few that I am sharing with you here, out of many!


                                          Sold!

Well, that's it for tonight, since I have a huge day tomorrow.  Hard to believe that it is actually here and that I am leaving a home that I have known and loved for about a third of my life.  Good night to all!