So, on my very first morning here, fresh from a case of jet lag and the dark heebie jeebies the night before, I dressed for Latin success (TShirt, Capris and Tenees) and tried the best I could to deal with a case of puffy eyes.  Out the door and into the street I go after a light breakfast of toast, New Zealand butter and café.  I am feeling optimistic again and have only walked about sixty feet downhill when I spied a pretty pink old building with a shingle that read, “Library and Archives of Ricardo Alfaro”.  Never heard of Mr. Alfaro that I can remember, but I do love libraries.  It is enclosed by stately iron grill work, and you must ring to enter.  So I’m just standing there thinking about it, when up the sidewalk comes a guy who says in Spanish, “Do you want to go in?’.  I’m not really sure if I do or not.  My mission is to replace the toothbrush I left at Gary’s house in Visalia.  My mouth is feeling pretty funky about 30  plus hours since the last brushing and I don’t know if I want to talk with anyone right now.  But in a flash he hops up the steps and rings the bell, and just like that a noble and kindly looking gentleman is standing there inviting me in.  The guy in the street immediately disappears!  (I am NOT making this up).

Ricardo Alfaro Library/Archives (don't know what happened to picture quality)

Courtyard in Hostal Urraca 

Photo showing partial view of Hostal Urraca between skyscrapers

Panama Canal

Boat passing through locks at Panama Canal

By the way, I have since discovered that Panamanians are the most helpful and sweet people inhabiting this earth.  In two short days, I have tons of stories to tell you to prove the truth of that statement.   Here’s just one.  I had been directed to a particular restaurant several blocks from the Hostal Urraca by one of the guests there.  When I got to the area, I  couldn’t find it, and to make it more difficult, my new friend didn’t know the name, just a vague location.  I was going further and further afield till I was approaching the outskirts of the financial district with no restaurants to be seen.  Seeing an older woman crossing the street, I decided to ask her if she could point me toward some restaurants in the area.  At this point just about any restaurant would do.  After a few words from me in halting Spanish, she quickly let on she had beautiful English.  We were talking less than one minute, when here comes a young and dashing businessman (I later learned he was a banker) who just slid into our conversation in perfect English and offered his own suggestions.  Would I like Fridays?  I said it would be OK, but did he happen to know of any Panamanian restaurants in the area?   At this point, there was rapido Spanish spoken between the banker and the woman.  Then, “Yes he did!”  And with that, ignoring my protests, he escorted me on foot about a city block and a half to a restaurant called Don Blas, where I enjoyed an excellent meal!  I am so dazzled by these lovely people!

But, Oh I do digress!  Back at the library, I learned that Ricardo Alfaro was the former president of Panama, and a friend and confident to many U.S. presidents, including the great Franklin D. Roosevelt.  President Alfaro was a meticulous man and kept all of his correspondence and other documents. Later, these were carefully and beautifully archived in white binders, and are now kept in a climate controlled chamber.  Ivan, his grandson, gave me the most wonderful private tour of the archives and all the exhibits that were there, including Ricardo Alfaro’s personal library and actual office.   Everything I saw and heard pointed to the fact that President Alfaro cared deeply for the people of Panama.  And, he was a great admirer of Abe Lincoln.  I learned so much about Panama’s and our own history that day!  I can’t think of a better way I could have spent my first waking hours in Panama, and to think I almost missed it but for the stranger walking by!   If you are visiting Panama City, please do not miss this:  EL MUSEO BIBLIOTECA ARCHIVO RICARDO J. ALFARO, Edificio Hispania, Calle 44 and Calle Colombia, Bella Vista, Panama.  fundarja@cwpanama.net

After that I purchased my toothbrush and a washcloth (the hostals give you a minuscule bar of soap and one bath towel), ate only some of the parts of pigs knuckles  (yikes!  I thought it was chicken!) I got at a neighborhood cafeteria, and walked back to the hostal.  Then, after a good tooth brushing and a little siesta, off to the Panama Canal by taxi.   There I learned that some of the things I told you in another blog are not true!  The canal is 60 miles long, not 80.  And according to the people who really do know, although it is very expensive to pass through the canal, it is definitely NOT one million U.S. dollars.  Sorry about that.  I’ll be far more careful vetting my facts and figures in the future.

Tomorrow when I post, I will tell you about my harrowing ride in a “red devil” bus today, and my even more harrowing bus trip from Panama City to El Valle, where I am tonight as I write this.  I am now at a higher altitude where it is cooler.   Till then, Chao!